Water Chemistry

Chemistry Parameter	Recommended Aquarium Level	General Ocean Value
Alkalinity (KH)	150- 200 ppm, or 9-11dKH	125-150 ppm, or 7-9 dKH
Calcium	375-450 ppm	420 ppm
Magnesium	1250 -1350 ppm	1275 ppm
Salinity (Specific Gravity)	1.019- 1.021 specific gravity (25-28 ppt) for fish ONLY; 1.025sg (34 ppt) for invertebrates (or mixed aquariums)	34 ppt or 1.025 sg
pH	7.8-8.4	8.0 -8.3
Ammonia	under .1 ppm	generally under .1 ppm
Nitrates	under 15-20 ppm fish, under 1 ppm reef	generally under .1 ppm
Redox (ORP)	Balanced, see Aquarium Redox	Variable (although more important than many realize)
Silica	under 2 ppm	.06 – 2.7 ppm
Strontium	5-15 ppm	8 ppm
Iodine	Generally not a problem with modern salt mixes & maintenance, however levels should not fall below .06 ppm with most corals/algae present	.06 ppm

Fish Care - Maintenance Schedule

Before purchasing pet fish, you should make sure to have a basic understanding of how to take care of your fish and maintain an aquarium.

Daily Fish Care

• If your fish is in a bowl, feed your fish daily.
• Change the water every 2-3 days.
• Use water that has been treated with a special water conditioner for fish.
• Do not use soap to clean the bowl. It could kill your fish.

Weekly Fish Care

• If you have a larger fish tank, you should be able to get away with cleaning the fish's home once a week. You can just change part of the water, 10-15% for most tanks, replacing it with fresh water.
• Follow the same rules listed above for the remainder.

Monthly Fish Care

• Lots of debris and waste hides in the bottom of the fish tank.
• If you have gravel in your tank, do a very good monthly vacuuming (using a syphon from the pet store).

Annual Fish Care

• Make sure your fish aren't getting too big for their bowl or tank. It might be time to upgrade to a larger size.
• Make sure you have filters and air supplies necessary for your type(s) of fish.

Now that you have a better understanding of how to take care of a fish, we have a few additional tips on how to care for your fish when you are away from home.

Fish Care Tips When You Travel

• Clean The Bowl or Tank - Do your partial water change and make sure the tank is full the day before you leave.
• Change The Filter - Check to see if a filter change is needed and replace accordingly.
• Feeding Your Fish - Do not overfeed your fish before you leave. You will only make your fish bloated, sick and constipated. It is not necessary to have someone feed your fish if you will be away for one week or less. If you will be gone a week or more, however, use one feeder block if you have a bottom feeder fish. For other types of fish, use a mechanical feeder or find a fish-wise friend to feed the fish for you.

Proper fish care is very important and will help your fish live long and happy lives!

Breeding Freshwater Fish

(1)Anabantoids (Labyrinth Fish)

Breeding Bettas, Gouramis

Most anabantoids are bubble-nest builders. The nest is built and maintained by the male!

Male anabantiods will take some time to build a nest of bubbles in floating debris or plants. They entice their mates under the nest and induce them to lay their eggs by giving them a spawning embrace. The eggs are immediately fertilized and placed in the nest by the male who guards them and later, the fry against all intruders.

     In the aquarium, an upturned butter dish or something similar can serve as the anchor for the nest. This is usually not necessary though if there are plenty of plants, especially floating plants like hornwort, in the aquarium. The breeding tank is usually small (5 or 10 gallons) and shallow with lots of hiding places for the female (plants and rocks). After the male and female are placed in the tank, the bubble nest is usually built within a few days.

     The female can be removed after spawning because the male may become aggressive towards her. The male will then watch over the eggs until they hatch 24 to 30 hours later. The temperature should be about 80 ° F with a lower temperature extending the hatching time and a higher temperature decreasing it. After hatching, the fry will absorb the yolk sac in two or three days. The fry will not be large enough to eat baby brine shrimp for several days so they must be fed infusoria or cooked egg yolk squeezed through a cloth.

     The larger anabantoids are easier to breed mainly because the fry are large enough to eat baby brine or pulverized flake food. For example, dwarf gouramis are harder because the fry are so small they need infusoria to survive the first week or so of life.

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(2) Cichlids

   
There are several different groupings that Cichlids fall into concerning breeding habits. Almost all the Cichlids are either "substratum-spawning" or "mouth brooders".

This means they either lay the eggs on some portion of the substratum, (including pits dug in the sand, leaves, and flat rocks), or they take the eggs and fry into their mouths to protect them from predators. Another, and more important distinction if you are planning to breed Cichlids, is whether they are monogamous or polygamous. 

Monogamous cichlids 

pair off when allowed to interact freely in the aquarium. Therefore about six or more young fish should be purchased and grown up in the same tank. As soon as they start pairing off, separate the pairs as they will claim a territory and defend it fiercely. Pairs often have trouble because aggression results in a battered female. For this reason many breeders set up barriers in the tank that only the female can pass through thus giving her a safe place away from the male. At the very least a lot of hiding places and maybe a few target fish can be introduced to the pairs' aquarium. The idea is that aggression is taken out on the target fish rather than the female of the pair. Suitable target fish should be fast like giant danios or botias or be able to dive into the gravel like some eels and loaches

.

Polygamous cichlids 

come in two varieties, open polygamy, where males and females consort freely among each other, and harem polygamy, where males maintain a territory with several females for an extended period of time. Harem polygamy is based on one male protecting several spawning sites from other males. The actual spawning sites are then claimed by each female within the male's larger territory. Females vigorously defend these actual spawning sites. Usually after spawning the male is no longer allowed near the spawning site and the female takes care of the eggs. This type of cichlid is usually marked by extreme sexual dimorphism, with the male being much larger and having more elaborate finnage. To breed such cichlids, you therefore need a large enough area so that the male has a place to go after spawning so the female won't batter or kill him. Fortunately most harem polygamy cichlids are dwarfs so a 20 gallon aquarium may be large enough. Overturned clay pots can serve as spawning sites and plenty of plants are always welcome even though prespawning activities may uproot them.

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The biggest problem with open polygamy cichlids is that they are thought to form pairs, and being housed this way, the female almost always ends up battered or killed. To avoid this, you can either house them in a community situation with other cichlids (and thus run the risk of producing hybrids) or house a male with at least three or more females. This spreads the abuse out over all the fish which increases their chances of survival. Almost all the open polygamy cichlids are mouth brooders which means the eggs and fry are carried by the female in her buccal cavity (mouth) until they are free swimming. The substratum spawning cichlids usually excavate pits in the substrate in which to lay their eggs. In both cases the parents will defend the eggs and fry until they are free swimming.

(3)Goldfish

  Goldfish are generally easy to breed! They are a very social animal and do well when kept in groups.

     Goldfish typically shoal, forage and feed in groups and are likely to breed as well. It is best to add oxygenating plants such as Anacharis in the aquarium for the spawning process and for eggs to adhere to.

     To induce spawning, the temperature can be slowly dropped to around 11 ° C (60 ° F ) and then slowly warmed until they spawn. This is done to mimic the conditions found in nature when spring arrives which is the only time they will spawn in the wild. Feeding lots of high protein food such live brine shrimp and worms during this time will also induce spawning.

     Before spawning as the temperature increases, the male will chase the female in a non-aggressive way around the aquarium. This can last for several days. The colors of both fish will intensify, the male somewhat more than the female. During spawning the male will push the female against the plants while both fish gyrate from side to side. This stimulates the female to drop tiny eggs which the male will then fertilize. The eggs will stick to the plants by sticky threads. Spawning can last 2 or three hours and can produce up to 10,000 eggs. The parents, when finished will then eat as many eggs as they can find.

     For this reason it is best to remove the parents after spawning is complete. You will need to feed one of the various specialty foods for fry (see Foods for Fry) until they become big enough to eat flake or brine shrimp. At first the fry are a dark brown or black color in order to better hide and not be eaten by larger fish. They gain their adult color after several months and can be put in with larger fish once they reach about 1 inch long.

(4)Livebearers

Mollies, Guppies, Platys, Swordtails

     Livebearers are generally very easy to breed. Like most other fish, the hard part is raising the fry. Generally the parents and other fish in the tank become predators to newly hatched fry but there are several solutions to this problem.

     The easiest solution is to provide good cover and hiding places for the fry in the form of plant cover like anacharis* and hornwort*. This will help but some will still get eaten. Another solution is to buy a breeding net, which provides a separate compartment in the aquarium for the mother before she drops the fry. After dropping the fry the mother can be removed so the fry are separated from the rest of the tank by the breeding net. Along the same lines the mother and fry can be placed in a separate aquarium so the mother can be separated from the fry when they are born. Breeding traps are also utilized which keep the mother confined with a grating that the fry can pass through.

     The fry can be fed baby brine shrimp, which is usually purchased frozen, or can be hatched from brine shrimp eggs. Also pulverized flake food, which is sold as baby fish food, and hardboiled egg yolk strained through a cloth.

(5)Catfish
Corys (Armored Catfish)



Suggested water conditions for breeding: pH: 6.0-6.5, hardness: 4 ° dGH. To prepare a pair for breeding set up a tank with large leafed plants. Feed the pair plenty of mosquito larvae and other live foods. Spawning is stimulated with frequent water changes.
     The Corys have a very interesting breeding routine. After bumping the male on the vent, the female will receive the males sperm into her mouth. She then discharges a few eggs which she catches and clasps with her ventral fins. Then the female will swim around and deposit a bit of sperm and just a few eggs at a time in select spots, such as on the underside of a selected leaf, some will deposit them on the heater tube or ever the aquarium glass.
     When the female runs out of sperm, she will go back to the male and repeat the process until the spawn is complete.  This will continue until about 100 eggs are deposited. Different species will put different amount of eggs on each leaf or other selected spots. After spawning the pair should be separated from the eggs. The eggs should be well aerated and treated to prevent fungus form growing on the eggs.
     The fry will hatch after four or five days and can be fed rotifers, Artemia, nauplii, and the contents of fresh peas.



(6)Characins(Egg layers)

 Tetras, Silver Dollar, Hatchetfish, Headstander, Leporinus

  Characins, which includes Tetras, Silver Dollars, Hatchetfish, Headstanders, and Leporinus, are free spawning. This means they will discharge the eggs and sperm into the open water, though always around bushy planted areas.

     Characins all breed the same, with just a few exceptions. It is best to spawn them by separating the males and females and then feeding them heavily on live foods until the females grow fat and the males become more colorful. Then introduce a female and a male into a specially prepared spawning tank.
     The spawning tank can be a low aquarium (5 gallons to 20 gallons depending on the species) filled 3/4 full with clean, aged water and lined with a dense foliage about two inches thick. The Glowlight Tetra is an exception here, in that they don't like the vegetation dense. You do not need any sand on the bottom but you can add a few pieces of wood or twigs with free space underneath to give the fry a place to attach. For the Neon Tetras, it is recommended that everything you place in the aquarium be sterilized, as well as the top. Other characins do not seem to need quite as much care to spawn successfully.
     Usually an increase in temperature to about 78 ° F (see individual species), feeding plenty of live foods, and covering the aquarium with a towel (to darken it and maintain temperature) will trigger spawning. Spawning usually takes place in 48 hours to a few days. The eggs of most characins are quite sticky and will then adhere to the foliage as they are dropped. Remove the parents as soon as they have completed spawning or the parents might eat the eggs.
     The spawning aquarium temperature can then be increased to and maintained at about 80 ° F . The eggs hatch quickly, usually in about 36 hours. The fry need to be fed infusoria, especially rotifers, for 1 to 4 weeks, depending on the species. Then they can eat brine shrimp.
     The Congo Tetra is another exception here in that they spawn in temperatures of 77 ° F , and their eggs take 6 days to hatch.

(7)Cyprinids (Egglayers)

     
Most Cyprinids, which includes Barbs, Danios, Rasbora, and Black-tailed sharks, are free spawning. This means they will discharge the eggs and sperm into the open water.

     Usually an increase in temperature and feeding plenty of live foods will trigger spawning. The eggs will then adhere to whatever they come in contact with: leaves, decorations, gravel, etc. The eggs hatch quickly, usually within 30 hours at which time the fry can eat finely powdered flake food followed by baby brine shrimp after a week or so.
     The parents will eat the eggs and the fry so some means of protecting the eggs is needed. To accomplish this you can use spawning grass, marbles in the bottom of the aquarium, or a grating that the eggs can fall through but the parents cannot. After spawning it is a good idea to remove the parents.
     One of the notable exceptions to this method of breeding is the practice of the Bitterling, Rhodeus sericeus amarus, who protects the eggs within the Mussel and defends them after they have hatched



(8)Rainbow fish (Egglayers)

    Rainbowfish spawn year round in their native habitat, and are easy to breed in captivity!

     Fortunately Rainbowfish are easy to breed and their fry are not difficult to rear. Australia has strong restrictions on the exportation of live animals, so many of the Rainbowfish species that have become available were the result of eggs being airmailed to Europe and the United States. where they were hatched and the fry reared.
     Rainbowfish have been found to breed most readily in the aquarium, especially after a water change. They will often even spawn in a community tank, but other fish and young rainbowfish will snack on the eggs. A breeding tank should be three or more feet long with aged water that is the same temperature as the species tank or a few degrees warmer. Use a thin layer of gravel or shell grit as a bottom substrate. The tank also needs to have a filter or be aerated. Provide either fine plants or an artificial spawning substrate for the eggs to adhere to and the hatched fry to hide in.
     Introduce either a pair at a time or three male Rainbowfish of a similar size with two females. The male of most species will display a bright courtship stripe. The males will court the females by swimming around their partner in circles while displaying. They will also do a headstand, indicating (pointing to) the spawning site. A receptive female will follow the male to the site where the two will swim closely side by side. The fishes' bodies and fins will vibrate for a few seconds as the sperm and eggs are released. Then they will quickly dart away, creating a whirling of the eggs and sperm.
     After a spawn there can be from two to over 200 eggs. They each have a long thin thread which attaches the egg to the spawning substrate. The larvae hatch in 4-14 days, depending on the species and the temperature. They should be feed very tiny foods often, at least twice a day. Beginning foods can be commercial prepared fry foods, finely ground flakes, infusoria, and nauplii. They grow quickly and will soon be able to take larger sized foods. They will be fully grown in just a few months, but it takes two to three years for them to reach maturity.
     A problem to be aware of is crossbreeding. Rainbowfish in the wild will not breed with fish of another species, even when presented the opportunity to do so. But for some reason, rainbowfish of the Melanotaeniidae family in the aquarium will interbreed, often with undesirable results. Somehow the fry of mismatched parents lose most of their coloration. Since many of these species are rare, it is desirable to keep the bloodlines distinct, or risk losing the beautiful coloration that nature has taken thousands of years to develop.

Setting Up a Planted Aquarium

The correct lighting and filtration, along with adequate heating, are essential to maintain a healthy planted aquarium!

  There are multiple benefits to having a planted freshwater aquarium. Plants increase the enjoyment and creativity of the hobbyist; they provide a superb habitat for many types of fish and other inhabitants, and they help provide stability to the aquarium.  But in order to reap these benefits, you must keep and maintain healthy plants.

     A planted aquarium has a few unique considerations, beyond what is generally discussed for setting up a regular aquarium. These are not changes to what is normally required to maintain a fish tank, but it is essential that you understand the requirements of the plants you wish to keep.

     In order to keep and maintain healthy plants you will want to learn about the needs of each type of plant you are adding to your aquarium. Then you can provide your plants with the correct lighting, understand their heating needs, and choose the best type of filtration.

Lighting:      

Artificial lighting in aquariums is essential in growing and maintaining healthy plants. Light is needed for photosynthesis, and therefore it should be supplied for about 10 to 14 hours a day. Connecting the lights to timer switches can help in controlling this. Most aquarium plants need plenty of light, however some species can do well with less lighting. As a general rule, plants with light green or red leaves need brighter lights than those with dark green leaves.
     There are several different types of lighting available for aquariums. Usually, fluorescent lighting is better for smaller aquariums and is cheaper than other types of lighting. Fluorescent lighting for aquariums usually produce a reddish yellow or reddish purple color. They are very efficient and cheap. About 2 watts of lighting should be supplied for every 4 liters of water. Fluorescent tubes should be changed every 6 months to a year because they become less effective over time.
     Mercury vapor lamps and halogen lamps both provide high intensity lighting and are suitable for larger, deeper aquariums (about 24 inches deep). They are generally placed above the aquarium (about 12 inches). Halogen lamps are more expensive than mercury vapor lamps, but they provide the best lighting for most plants.

Heating:      

Plants generally thrive best between temperatures of 73 to 81 degrees Fahrenheit, but different plants have slightly different heating needs. Keeping the temperature fairly constant is important in planted aquariums because plants often cannot tolerate sudden changes in temperature. Using a thermostat is a good idea to help keep the temperature at a constant level.
     Heaters should provide about 1 watt per liter of water in unheated rooms and 0.5 watts per liter in normally heated rooms. Different types of heaters include automatic heaters that attach on the inside of the aquarium, thermofilters, bottom heaters, or simple heating pads that can be placed under the aquarium.
     In nature the substrate is usually warmer than the water, and the use of heating cables can simulate this in the planted aquarium. If you are using a heating cable, you will want a layer of sand that is about 1" - 1 1/2" deep to cover the cable. 

Filtration:      

Filtration is a must in order to keep your planted aquarium clean and healthy. Plants are a big help in the process of filtering, and can convert ammonium as well as remove some metals, however other types of filtration are generally needed also.

Filtration can be put into three main categories: mechanical, biological, and chemical.

• Mechanical filtration is often as simple as changing a portion of the water regularly in order to remove large debris and keep the aquarium looking nice. However, having an actual filter is recommended.
  
• Biological filtration is a more subtle extremely important type of filtration. In this type microorganisms are present in the filter which convert harmful substances into less toxic substances. This is especially important for fish because it reduces toxic ammonia and ammonium into less toxic nitrites, nitrates, and sometimes elemental nitrogen. Plants also act as a biological filter to some extent, especially in the reduction of ammonium.
  
• Chemical filtration uses a process called adsorption to remove many chemicals, such as heavy metals, from the water. Adsorption is the process where the chemical actually bonds to the surface of the media used to remove it from the water. Chemical filtration is not as practical as mechanical and biological simply because it is not selective in what it removes. It will remove both harmful and beneficial substances, which is not ideal for an aquarium. Therefore, using this type of filtration as a long-term solution is not a good idea.

   

Filters:      

The basic process of filtration is to pump water through a canister type, or a hang-on the back type of filter that contains whatever filter media is needed - mechanical, biological, chemical, or a combination of the three. Filters can be either external or internal.
     Biological filters usually need a fairly fast flow rate so that the bacteria are provided with oxygen, however in planted aquariums, it is a good idea to have a slower flow rate so that it reduces the surface movement and so that it keeps the oxygen levels lower. In this case anaerobic bacteria (bacteria that live without oxygen) also need to survive to perform basically the same functions as aerobic bacteria.
     Undergravel filters are primarily a biological filter and are less desirable for a planted aquarium. Besides surface movement they cause a lot of water movement around the roots; thus cooling the roots, oxygenating the gravel, and removing the nutrients.
     Usually, if filters are kept clean and maintained well, an equilibrium can exist so that an environment is made where both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria can survive at a given flow rate

 

Selecting Aquarium Plants

Using freshwater plants to craft a beautiful aquarium is lots of fun, and is a very rewarding and creative experience.

 An attractive aquarium can be even more stunning using live aquarium plants. Plants make attractive ornamentation and they help to keep the water quality of the aquarium balanced.
Along with beauty and stability, an aquarium aqua scape will also create a natural and peaceful aquatic environment.

 

1. Aquarium Design - The Aquascape Aquarium

Designing a planted aquarium:   

Planning what your aquarium will look like is one of the funnest parts. You may want to fashion your aquarium aquascape setup after a natural occurring aquatic habitat. These are referred to as 'Biotope' aquariums. They replicate a natural water way, such the Amazon Basin for an Amazon biotope, and incorporate plants and fish found in those habitats. Or you may simply want to mix and match plants and fish in your own particular pleasing manner.
   No matter what size of an aquarium you are designing for, the simplest way to plan, is to think about the tank as having three parts running vertically across the bottom of the tank. Visually divide the space into a background area, a middle or mid-ground area, and a foreground. Along with these planting areas on the bottom, there is also the top or surface area. On the surface you can add floating plants.
   Keep in mind the needs or your fish, they like to have places to hide but also need open areas for swimming. To determine which types of plants can go in each area, read about each plant you are considering to determine what height and width it will reach, and how much it will spread out as grows and propagates. Here are some design considerations for each area of your aquarium:

• Background Area: This is the backdrop for your tank. Aquarium plants that do best in this area are those that grow tall. Rosette plants such as the sword plants, Vallisneria, and Water Onions work well here. Some of the ferns like the Java Fern, and some of the stem plants like Anacharis, Hornwort, and Cabomba can also be used. You need to be careful that the plants you choose for height don't also bush out too much. unless you want plants that will fill in both the background area as well as the middle area.
  
  
• MIddle Area: The mid-ground area of your aquarium is the primary focal area. Careful placement of plants in this area is important for a balanced design. It is also important to include open swimming space for your fish in this area. Consider low-growing and moderate height plants. Those that bush out can be perfect, as they will have plenty of room to grow and can become the main attraction. Stem plants work great for this area, as many of them are moderate in height as well as have some bushyness to them. There are also fern plants and rosette plants that can work well.
  
  
• Foreground: Plants in the foreground need to be low-growing so they don't block the view of rest of your aquarium. They can be individual plants or ground cover type plants. Rosettes such as the Dwarf Lilly, Dwarf Anubias, Micro-Sword Grass, and some of the Cryptocoryne's work real well. Stem plants like the Fountain Plant and the Japanese Rush are great individual plants for the foreground and can also be used as additional focal points.
  
  
• Surface Area: Plants on the surface or top of the aquarium are often free floating plants that don't need to root in the aquarum substrate. However, some of the water plants growing out of the substrate will grow tall and also spread across the surface. These plants are great places for fish fry to hide in, but you need to be careful to not let surface plants obsure the light necessary to the other plants or it can restrict their plant growth.

2. Selecting the Types of Plants

Selecting your plants:    When deciding what plants to put in your aquarium, you should take into account a few basic about aquarium plants.

• Plants characteristics: First, research how large different plants can get and their water requirements (i.e. pH, temperature, water hardness, light, etc). Obviously, you don't want to buy large plants for a small aquarium or small plants for a large aquarium. You also want to try to buy plants that have similar water requirements so that they will all thrive equally well in the environment that is provided. Also, keep in mind that you may not want fast-growing plants together with slow-growing plants because faster growing plants can use up the nutrients so quickly that the slower growing plants don't receive adequate nutrients.
  
  
• Compatibility: Another consideration is what fish and plants are compatible. Once again, you want to make sure that the water requirements are similar for both the fish and plants so that it is not difficult to meet the needs of all the organisms in the aquarium.
  
  
• Visual effects: To create an attractive aquarium design, try choosing plants that have different colors and structures. You can include aquarium plants with varying colors, such as red and green plants. Visual interest is also added by varying between broad leaf and skinny leaf plants, as well as varying between tall and wide plants. Arrange the plants to create focal points and backdrops. Using each of the three areas, the foreground, mid ground, background, and even floating plants on the surface area, will help contribute to the visual attractiveness of the aquarium.

Purchasing your plants:

     

When actually purchasing the plants, try to find healthy, young ones. Signs that they are not healthy include brown and yellow leaves, holey or transparent leaves, missing leaves, bent stems, and white or damaged roots.
   Most plants sold in pet stores are in pots or are sold in floating bunches. For transport home, they should be placed in plastic bags with air and moisture, or wrapped in moist newspapers. This will keep them from drying out and getting damaged.

3. Adding Plants to the Aquarium

Starting a new planted aquarium:    

When first starting up a new aquarium it is best to choose hardy plants that root quickly because the biological system is not yet established and broken in. Plants that are fairly sensitive will have a hard time and may die easily.
   Algae also tends to grow quickly at first before the aquarium is broken in. Hardy plants are better able to cope with this fast algae growth. It is a good idea to purchase algae eaters immediately as well to help keep down the algal growth.
   After the aquarium is effectively broken-in, about 4-6 weeks, the hardy plants can be replaced with the less hardy plants. The more sensitive plants will have a much easier time in an aquarium that is already established.

   For more information on setting up a planted aquarium see: Setting Up a Planted Aquarium

Preparing your plants for the aquarium:  

  

Once home, thoroughly rinse off the plants. Take them out of any containers, remove rubber bands, and cut off any dead roots, stems, and leaves.
   Often new plants will contain snails. For normal aquariums it is not necessary to remove them, if however you are using a slow-release fertilizer, you will want to remove any Malayan snails. If you plan on having a strictly plant aquarium, you will want to remove all snails.

Planting your aquarium:   

In new aquariums make sure the water is around room temperature before planting. Cold water shocks and stresses most aquarium plants. Here's some basic information about aquarium plants:

• Rosette Plants: If there is a lot of root growth, cut up to half of them off because this stimulates new root growth. Then simply make a hole with your finger in the substrate and place the plant firmly in it. Fill in the hole and make sure that a small part of the root is visible above the substrate.
  
  
• Stem Plants:You don't usually want to plant stem plants because their roots grow at their nodes and because they are more sensitive. So simply by clipping them to the ground or tying them to a piece of wood or rock with some thread, and then allowing them to root by themselves is a good alternative.
  
  
• Ferns and Mosses: For rhizomes, make sure that the roots are planted as deeply as possible, at an angle, and with no roots above the substrate.
  
  
• Bulbs and Tubers: Aquarium plant bulbs and tubers should have about half of the bulb covered by the substrate.
  
  
• Floating Plants: Floating plants do not need to be planted at all, they should just be placed on top of the water, without trimming their roots.

   Leave room between newly planted specimens so that they will have room to grow. A good idea is to provide newly placed plants with nutrient tablets. Place the tablets in the soil right next to, or below their roots. This will provide them with an immediate source of nutrients.

 

 

Propagation of Aquarium Plants

In their natural environments plants have no problem propagating or reproducing themselves, because all the conditions are practically ideal for them!

Many common plant species will reproduce on their own in a healthy aquarium. However it is often harder to obtain ideal conditions in the aquarium for all types of aquatic plants to readily propagate. Some aquarium plants will reproduce freely without assistance, while others will do better with some help.      There are a several types of plant propagation.      Reproduction is either by sexual or asexual means. Sexual propagation involves flowers and seed formation. Asexual propagation in plants, also called vegetative propagation, is without seed but through runners, offsets, and plantlets. Plant propagation techniques done with cuttings or rhizome dividing is artificial propagation.
     Aquatic plants tend to favor asexual (vegetative propagation) or artificial propagation. Only a few depend on seed as their main method of plant propagation. In general, propagating aquarium plants is much easier when separating a part of the original plant and re-planting it, than by trying to grow new plants from seeds.


Asexual Propagation:  


Most aquarium plants reproduce asexually, meaning that the offspring are genetically identical to the parent plant. This is also known as vegetative propagation. There are three different ways for aquarium plants to reproduce this way:

• Runners (slips): One way is for them to produce runners, which grow out from the base of the parent plant and then produce what are called "slips" at the end of the runners. These slips can eventually anchor themselves in the substrate and survive on their own. Sometimes the runners that are between the parent plant and the slips break away from the slips, and sometimes they just continue to grow and produce more slips. Usually, it is best to separate a slip and plant it on its own once it is about a quarter the size of the parent plant.
  
• Offsets: Another asexual way that plants reproduce that is very similar to producing runners is producing offsets. Offsets also grow off of the main plant, but they grow extremely close to it and do not wander like runners do. These offsets can be removed from the parent plant and planted elsewhere in the aquarium.
  
• Adventitious plantlets: The last asexual way of reproduction is when small plantlets form on the parent plant, called adventitious plantlets. These can grow on any part of the plant, i.e. nodes, roots, leaves, or stems. After it has grown for a while, naturally its attachment to the parent plant will die off and it will be removed, however in aquariums you should remove them once they are about 3-4 cm and replant them yourself to ensure survival.

Artificial Propagation: 

     It is also often quite easy to artificially propagate many aquarium plants by simply cutting part of it off and replanting it (stem plants are the easiest to do this with); or by dividing the rhizome in two and replanting the two pieces (ferns and mosses can be propagated this way).  

Cuttings: The best place to take cuttings is from the top stems, however you can also take cuttings from side shoots and the middle stems as well, they are just not usually as strong as those from the top stems.
     To take a cutting, cut part of the plant off just above a node and remove any leaves around nodes that are directly above this. This is the area where the new roots will grow. Then plant the cutting into the substrate so that the nodes where you removed the leaves is just covered.

Rhizome dividing: Plants that have rhizomes can also be artificially propagated by dividing the rhizome in two. You can do this by removing the plant from the substrate and carefully cutting the rhizome, being careful that both pieces have at least one good shoot growing from them. Then re-plant each piece of the parent plant.

Seed Propagation:   

    Propagating plants by way of seeds is often difficult to do, however it can be done. If you are trying to reproduce plants that propagate sexually, you should have at least two of those plants, and they should be able to produce flowers above the water surface.

• Parent plants: Provide a low enough water level that the plants can easily grow strong aerial stems above water. After flowers have been produced, you must then transfer pollen from the stamen to the stigmas using a watercolor brush, cotton swab, or your finger depending on how large the flowers are.
  
• Seedlings: Seeds should be produced if pollination is successful and you'll want to plant them as quickly as possible. First, plant the seeds in damp soil rather than soil immersed in water. Once they start to grow above the soil, add a small amount of water. As the plants grow, continually add just enough water to keep them submerged in water.

Aquarium Plant Water Maintenance

Water maintenance for freshwater aquarium plants    is crucial, the quality of the water affects whether plants thrive and grow or become stunted and die!

  Aquatic plants need to have water with specific macro and micro nutrients, as well as the proper water hardness and pH, in order to be healthy and contribute to the overall well-being of the aquarium. In addition to light and heat, water is the plants' vital element and it must to be attuned to their needs.      It is important to learn about the types of plants you want and the quality of water they require. When choosing plants, keep in mind that different species can have different water quality requirements. However members of the same species will have similar if not identical requirements. Choosing like groups of plants can make plant maintenance and a thriving planted aquarium somewhat easier.

Water Hardness and pH:
 

• Hardness: The hardness of the water depends on the amounts of dissolved minerals and salts, mainly magnesium and calcium. Both total and carbonate hardness are a consideration when determining if the water is suitable for certain plants. Carbonate hardness is even more important than the total hardness. Total hardness is the sum of the magnesium and calcium metals present, while carbonate hardness comes from hydrogen carbonates and carbonates (which come from the carbonic acid produced from the magnesium and calcium salts). The carbonate hardness for plants should be about 3 to 10 dCH.
       Most plants need harder water, but if you have species that need softer water, it can be softened by either ion exchange or reverse osmosis, accompanied by addition of tap water (to increase the salinity) until the hardness is where you want it. Reverse osmosis and ion exchange equipment to perform these methods can be found in pet stores.
  
• pH: The pH also often depends on the carbonate hardness of the water. If there is not enough carbon dioxide in the water for the plants to use in their photosynthesis process then they will often extract it from the calcium and magnesium in the water. This can significantly raise the pH of the water, causing harm to the fish. However, carbonates in the water act as buffers, which keep the pH from changing drastically.   Therefore, it is necessary to measure the carbonate hardness regularly. Performing regular water changes will help to keep the water's buffering capacity high.

Macro nutrients:  


    Macro nutrients are needed in large quantities and are essential to keeping healthy, beautiful plants. Following is a list of Macro nutrients:

• Oxygen: All organisms, including plants, need oxygen to breathe. Plants can take it up in the form of water, carbon dioxide, and as dissolved elemental oxygen. Most of the oxygen they take up is through respiration and through their roots. They also release oxygen during photosynthesis, which helps provide it for the fish.
       Optimum oxygen levels in the water are usually between 5 and 7 mg/L, and can be achieved by having a healthy population of plants that produce oxygen (with proper lighting supplied) as well as a healthy population of fish.
       An oxygen gas equilibrium also occurs between the air and water, and so oxygen will be dissolved into the water from the air or vice versa if there is a deficit or surplus. However this is a slow process and if the fish and plant populations aren't at an optimum level or if too much or too little light or nutrients are supplied, an oxygen equilibrium will never be reached.
       If you suspect that the oxygen level is off, test kits are available in many pet stores to check the levels.
  
• Carbon Dioxide: Carbon dioxide is an extremely important plant nutrient. Plants need it for their photosynthesis processes to provide themselves with food and energy, and therefore they must have carbon dioxide to survive. Plants can take it up through their roots, but most of it is taken in by their leaves directly from the water. It is present in water due to the breakdown of organic waste and also by the respiration of both plants and fish.
       Test kits are available to test the levels, and normally some type of carbon dioxide addition is needed in the water. There are carbon dioxide fertilizing devices that can release small amounts of carbon dioxide continuously over time if there is a deficiency.
  
• Nitrogen: For aquatic plants, nitrogen is an extremely important nutrient in carrying out photosynthesis. It is used mainly to synthesize nucleic acids and proteins. Unlike land plants they cannot use large amounts of it in the form of nitrates, nor can they take it up in its elemental form. Instead, they mostly take it up as ammonium, which only exists in water with a fairly low pH. You must be careful that the pH does not change quickly from low to high, since ammonium will be converted to ammonia by bacteria in the biological filters and cause harm to the fish.
       To make sure the correct amount of nitrogen is available, perform water changes on a regular basis and add fertilizer regularly. Another important factor is to make sure that the aquarium has a properly working biological filter to reduce the ammonia that may occur.
       Nitrogen test kits are available in pet stores to help you determine what level of nitrogen you have in your aquarium. Healthy nitrate levels are usually around 25 mg/L.
  
• Potassium: Potassium often creates problems if there is not enough of it available for the plants. It serves several functions, including photosynthesis, producing proteins, aiding seed and root development, and battling diseases. It affects the overall appearance of the plant because if it is not taking in enough potassium, it becomes weakened overall due to the fact that potassium is needed in so many functions throughout the plant. To ensure there is enough potassium for the plants make sure to fertilize regularly. Different fertilizing methods are available, such as liquid drops and slow releasing bottom fertilizers.
  
• Calcium: Calcium, for the most part is available in the correct amounts in aquariums. It is needed for cell growth and structure in plants but there is usually enough in the surrounding water. You should be careful if you are using only reverse osmosis water or natural rainwater because these may not have enough calcium in them. The best remedy to low-calcium water is to use substrates that contain some calcium, such as gravel-based substrates, and to use tap water as the main water supply.
  
• Magnesium: Magnesium is important for producing chlorophyll for photosynthesis, as well as to activate certain enzymes. Levels should be around 5 to 25 mg/L. Most hard tap water has sufficient magnesium levels but if you live in a soft water area you may want to consider using nutrient-rich substrate additives or liquid fertilizers. Too high of magnesium levels can cause problems with the plants taking up other nutrients however.
  
• Phosphorus: Phosphorus is needed to keep the roots and flowers of plants healthy and also to make enzymes and other important compounds. Plants need their phosphorus in the form of phosphates. They do not need large amounts of it, so generally you do not need to worry about a deficiency of it in the water, however a surplus can be a problem. Surpluses often occur due to large amounts of uneaten fish food and this often creates algal blooms. The best remedy to this is simply to do regular water changes.
  
• Sulphur: Sulphur is used (once again) for producing chlorophyll to be used in photosynthesis and also to produce proteins and amino acids. It is taken in the form of sulphates and is usually present in sufficient quantities in aquarium water. It can be added by using soil-based substrates or fertilizers.
  
• Carbon: Carbon is needed to build the basic structure of plants. It is mostly taken up in the form of carbon dioxide, which is broken down during photosynthesis. See carbon dioxide above for further information on how to keep correct levels of it in your aquarium.

Micro nutrients:    


Micro nutrients are needed in very small amounts and so are generally not as big of a problem as macro nutrients.     Usually, the normal aquarium environment provides the necessary doses of these nutrients for plants to stay healthy.
     They are needed in plants to help in many different jobs, such as cell structure, enzyme synthesis, photosynthesis, respiration, regulation of metabolism, and several other functions.
     Several micro nutrients include:

• Sodium
• Copper
• Boron
• Nickel
• Chlorine
• Zinc
• Manganese
• Iron
• Molybdenum

     If you do find that it seems that there is a deficiency of one of the micro nutrients, ways to increase it include fertilizing, using nutrient-rich substrates, and using tap water when changing the water.
     Many elements that are needed for plant maintenance are present in tap water as well as part of the planted tank substrate. Regular water changes with tap water, adding fresh water aquarium fish, fertilizing with aquarium plant food, and the addition of an aquarium co2 systems are some of the ways to add and replenish necessary nutrients in your planted aquarium.

Aquarium Plant Substrates

Developing an aquatic 'green thumb' will give you hours of enjoyment with your planted aquarium!

  Keeping, maintaining, and ultimately propagating your aquarium plants is truly a joy, and it starts with a good substrate. The term 'substrate' refers to the planting medium used on the bottom of an aquarium. Similar to soil in a garden, substrates are needed by plants in order for them to root, obtain nutrients, and propagate.

     In natural environments, the substrate is typically slightly warmer than the water. It is also full of nutrients and dense. These things help the plants to root better, they receive better nutrition, and the warmer root conditions help in the growth of the plants. It is important to determine which soil is best for plant growth in the

     In the aquarium, maintaining the substrate once it is set is usually fairly simple. Not much is needed. This is due to the normal activity of the aquarium. The fish and plants produce and release enough organic products, that then collect in the substrate, and in turn help the plants grow.

 Choosing a Substrate: 

     There are several things to take into consideration when choosing your planting medium. Which types of substrates to use are determined by:

• First, the needs of the plants.
• Then the type of aquarium equipment you will be using.
• And finally the overall aquarium design you are looking to achieve.

     Determining what type of substrate to use is extremely important for the plants. For healthy aquatic plants, the substrate provides nutrients for normal plant growth development and plant propagation. Several substrates available in most stores include: common pea gravel, aquarium gravel, sand, nutrient-rich and soil-based substrates, clay substrates, and quartz gravel (lime-free gravel). Often, different substrates can be mixed to obtain an optimum environment for your particular types of plants.

Substrate Considerations:  

    There are different points to consider with each type of substrate such as the size of the particles and the depth of each substrate level.

• Size of the substrate: Usually, you don't want substrates that have large particle size because it allows more water to pass through and also acts as a debris trap. Particle sizes should be approximately 0.04 to 0.12 inches in diameter.
  
• Depth of the substrate: The depth of the substrate should be considered. How deep it is mostly depends on the type of plants present. Plants with longer roots need deeper substrates than plants with shorter roots. Usually a good rule of thumb is to have a substrate depth of between 2 and 4 inches.
  
• Mineral and Organic Content: Another factor is the mineral and organic contents of the soil. Much of this is often provided by the aquarium water and the other organisms living in the aquarium, but nutrient-rich substrates are available if needed. 

Substrate Layers:
     The four main substrates layers are: base substrates, rooting substrates, nutrient-rich substrates, and top level substrates.

• Base substrates: A base substrate is usually sand. Base substrates aren't usually necessary, except in the case of heating cables present on the bottom. In nature the substrate is usually warmer than the water, and the use of heating cables can simulate this in the planted aquarium. If you are using a heating cable, you will want a layer of sand that is about 1" - 1 1/2" deep to cover the cable.
  
• Rooting substrates: The rooting substrates are the main body of the substrate, designed to help anchor the plants. They do contain some nutrients, but are dense enough so that not too much water can be passed through. This layer is generally about 2" deep.
       Quart gravel or lime-free substrates are ideal as rooting substrates. Some of these substrates include products called flourite, acrilite, or Onyx sand (a newer product from Seachem). Soil or potting soil is not often used because it is difficult to keep from clouding the water. It can be used and then covered with a heavier top level substrate, but you may still experience a muddying of the water.
  
• Nutrient-rich substrates: Nutrient-rich substrates contain high levels of nutrients and only a thin layer of them should be used. This layer is used solely for the benefit of the plants and are designed to be used in limited quantities. Some nutrient-rich substrates include laterite and soil or potting soil. Laterite is too rich in nutrients for a rooting substrate and should be used sparingly. It can be added by rolling it up into little balls and placing the balls next to the plant roots.
  
• Top level substrates: The top level substrate is the one that is visible to viewers and does not serve any other major function. This is a good place for coarser gravels and can be quite decorative, depending on the type of aquarium scene you are creating.

Substrate Types:

• Common Pea Gravel: This gravel is very similar to what you would see in a natural environment. Used alone the normal common pea gravel sold in stores is generally not ideal for plants. Pea gravel is fairly loose thereby making it easy for water to flow through it, thus cooling the roots, oxygenating the gravel, and removing nutrients.
       You can however use the smallest grade for a rooting medium though a lime-free quartz gravel is a better alternative. This gravel does work well as a top layer over finer substrates, or combined with other substrates to obtain a more realistic 'river' type display.
  
• Quartz Gravel (lime-free substrate): Quartz gravel or a lime-free substrate is ideal as a rooting medium for plants. You can get it in a golden brown, black or white.
  
• Colored (aquarium) Gravel: This is much like the common pea gravel and is also not ideal for plants. Again it is fairly loose and allows for easy water flow through it.
       It can be mixed with other substrates for a visual variation, and will work well as a top layer over finer substrates. Light gray gravel is not a good choice however, as it causes distress in the fish due to how strongly the light is reflected off of it.
  
• Calcius gravels: Crushed coral and other calcius sands or gravels that are offered for saltwater aquariums are high in calcium. They should be avoided unless you need a high pH and water hardness, few plants want this. These gravels work well in freshwater fish aquariums that are designed for African cichlids that need these high levels.
  
• Sand: Sand is very fine, often even dusty. The 'silver sand' sold in aquarium shops is totally inert. Sand will compact and prevent any water movement resulting in a lack of oxygen.
       Though sand can be used in a thin layer as a rooting medium for some plants, you will want to stir it occasionally to keep it from compacting. It is generally used as a base layer over heating cables.
  
• Soil, Potting Soil: This substrate can be tricky to use as it can have too many nutrients and it may encourage algae growth. Also it is difficult to keep it from clouding the water.
       Potting Soil is sometimes used as a thin nutrient-rich substrate layer and covered with a heavier top substrate. It has also been effectively used in permanent pots that are covered with a heavier top substrates. The potted method can be used in aquariums with undergravel filters.
  
• Nutrient-rich Substrates: These are a long term source of nutrients that are vital to the plants. They should be used in limited quantities of either very thin layers between other substrate layers or as small pellets placed by the roots of plants. See the Nutrient rich layer described above for some of these products.

 

Aquarium Plant Feeding and Maintenance

   Plants that are healthy actually help keep the aquarium water filtered and the planted tank beautiful!

   Healthy live aquarium plants can create not only a spectacular aquarium design, but also help maintain a healthy aquarium. Water plants can culturally help create the correct tank conditions needed for maintaining healthy plant and fish populations.

     To keep planted aquariums healthy and nice looking, some basic plant care measures should be performed regularly. Feeding aquatic plants is the same thing as fertilizing their environment with nutrients. Nutrients should be present in both the substrate and the water to assure the plants are getting the proper amounts. With a nutrient rich environment, they can then undergo photosynthesis and provide themselves with food and energy.

     Though many of the necessary nutrients are available as a natural aspect of the normal aquarium setup, the substrate and water, these alone are not enough for plant maintenance. Other nutrients need to be provided through the additions of fertilizers and aquarium co2 systems. Regular aquarium and plant maintenance, along with maintenance over time, will also be needed.

Feeding Needs
 

     Many nutrients are already present in fresh water aquarium substrate. Macro nutrients that are usually present include oxygen, hydrogen, calcium and nitrogen. In a normal well-maintained aquatic environment, only some nutrients must be provided regularly.
     Nutrients that generally need to be provided for planted aquariums are; magnesium, sulphur, potassium, carbon, and phosphorus. These micro nutrients are usually provided through liquid fertilizers and also in tap water that is used in changing the water. 

Fertilizing methods

   There are different ways of fertilizing your aquarium depending on the type of water, the type of plants, and what nutrients are needed.

• Substrates:
  Nutrient rich substrates, soil-based substrates, or nutrient-rich substrate additives are a great way to ensure that there are enough nutrients present. One commonly used soil additive is pure laterite, which can be placed in balls near the plant root.
  
• Tablet fertilizers:
  A slow-release planted aquarium fertilizer (tablet fertilizer) can also be used. Aquatic plant food tablets can be used to provide an additional source of nutrients but should not be used as the primary source of nutrients.
  
  Tablets are placed on the bottom of the aquarium and must be replaced whenever they are used up.
  
• Liquid fertilizers:Liquid plant fertilizers are often used to supply small amounts of some nutrients. A good example of a liquid plant fertilizer is Flora Pride or Leaf Zone.
  
  They should be used regularly (usually with every water change) but should be used with caution because you do not want to over-fertilize.

• Uneaten Fish food (use sparingly):
  One subtle way of fertilizing that occurs is through small amounts of uneaten fish food and from fish excretions.
  
  This detritus contains nutrients needed for plants such as phosphate and potassium. However, this should not be the primary method for fertilizing. Also be sure not to overfeed as it will cause excessive amounts of rotting debris.

Aquarium Co2 Systems

    Carbon dioxide fertilization:

     Carbon dioxide fertilization is practically essential. Carbon dioxide is one of the major nutrients that plants need for photosynthesis and therefore to continually grow and stay healthy.

     Although carbon dioxide is released from the fish and from the substrate, it is not usually enough to maintain plants. CO2 Systems are used to keep carbon dioxide at optimal levels for plant growth. An added benefit is accurate control of the aquarium Ph.

    Different carbon dioxide fertilizers that are available come in various aquarium co2 systems:

1. Systems with tablets that slowly dissolve
2. Cylinders that are connected to timers and release small amounts of carbon dioxide at regular intervals
3. Slow-release chemical reactors.

  

     For more information about aquatic plant nutrients see:
     Aquarium Plant Water Maintenance - Water Hardness, pH, Macro-nutrients, Micro-nutrients

 
Plant Maintenance:

   Regular maintenance of planted aquariums is just as vital as maintenance for a fish only aquarium. Here are some tips for keeping aquarium plants healthy and your tank in top shape::

• Visual checks: Things to do on a regular basis include checking how healthy the plants and fish appear, checking to make sure everything in the aquarium is working properly (i.e. lights, filters), checking the temperature, and feeding the fish and plants.
  
• Algae & debris removal: Removing algae once a week is a good idea, since algae can "take over" the plants, basically covering them and killing them, and it also can release toxins that are damaging to both plants and fish. Remove any dead plant leaves and brush off any debris that may collect on the plants.
  
• Water changes: Also change one-fifth to one-third of the water at least twice a month (changes are required more often the more fish you have) and siphoning debris from the bottom is recommended.
  
• Water testing: Testing the water for nitrates, pH and water hardness should be done about once a week.
  
• Maintenance over time: Over time, the substrate may become too polluted and need a thorough siphoning. Things such as carbon dioxide suppliers, pumps, filters, and heaters will need to be replaced periodically. Lights should be changed at least every 6 to 12 months because they will lose intensity after a while. Also check for old or dying plants and remove and replace them so that they do not rot and cause debris